Winters in the Triangle area are considered fairly mild, with the average first fall freeze (32°F) around early November. Because the ground stays relatively warm later in the season and winters are moderate, many winter-prep tasks should be timed for early November. Our landscape experts at Setting Sun Patios answer a few questions regarding the standard steps to prepare your yard for the colder months.
1) How to prepare your lawn for the winter season in our area
Cool-season lawns like tall fescue
If you have a tall fescue lawn, late summer into early fall would be the prime time to overseed or repair bare spots. Apply a fall fertilizer for strong roots before dormancy and avoid heavy top-growth fertilizer late in the season that promotes growth susceptible to cold. Mow at about 3 – 3.5 inches for fescue going into winter and make sure not to scalp before the freeze.
Warm-season lawns like Bermudagrass or zoysia
Warm-season turf in the Piedmont goes dormant after the first deep frost. It’s normal to see browning. The key is to get the lawn into dormancy in good health rather than pushing growth late. Late-season nitrogen should be very light or omitted, especially for slower grasses like centipede or zoysia.
General lawn prep:
- Aerate in early fall if your soil is compacted to improve drainage and root growth. This is more common with clay soil.
- Mulch-mow leaves into the grass or rake and compost them—don’t let a thick leaf mat of debris cover turf.
- Adjust watering: As growth slows, reduce how often you water your lawn. Keep soil from staying soggy, which can increase the chance of disease in cold, wet months.
- Mow less in winter; only mow when necessary and avoid mowing when grass is frosted or wet.
2) What to do with leaves and flower beds
Our experts suggest shredding fallen leaves into beds or the lawn in November. This applies when the soil is still warm enough for decomposition, as it helps add organic matter. You can also top-dress perennial beds with finished compost in late fall, once plants have gone dormant. Leave some debris or seedheads in flowerbeds for wildlife and pollinators, but clean up excessive dead material to prevent pests or disease.
3) How to protect trees and shrubs?
Setting Sun Patio landscapers recommend applying 2-4 inches of mulch around the base of shrubs/trees, keeping it pulled back from trunks, to insulate roots and moderate temperature swings. This often happens overnight.
You should prune lightly in late fall, focusing on removing dead or broken branches. Reserve heavier structural pruning for mid-winter for non-spring-flowering shrubs to avoid cutting off next year’s blooms.
On nights when frost or freeze is expected, cover sensitive plants with frost cloths, especially in low-lying or shaded areas.
4) Don’t ignore irrigation systems.
- For automatic sprinklers, plan to drain or winterize them right after growth ends (late October/early November) to prevent freeze damage. While our Raleigh area doesn’t always experience deep, prolonged freezes, pipes and valves can still suffer from expansion if water remains and a cold snap hits.
- Clean and store garden hoses; insulate exposed spigots in case of overnight freezes.
5) Vegetable gardens & native plants.
- The cool-season crops (like spinach, kale, collards) can be planted into late fall but need to be protected when frost is forecast.
- Use row covers or fabric to stretch your vegetable season into December if desired, but assume the worst after mid-November in unprotected beds.
- Favor native plants that tolerate Piedmont winters. Let some seedheads stand for birds and beneficial insects; this supports winter ecology better than a totally bare bed.
Things to always keep in mind:
Don’t assume that the frost won’t happen just because the winter is mild. Freezes can occur as early as October. Over-fertilizing too far into the season can lead to growth in cold weather, causing your lawn to weaken. Be mindful of the upcoming temperatures. Try to clean your lawn before winter, as thick layers of leaves can lead to fungal issues when the soil remains moist and grass is dormant. The winterization process for those living in the Triangle area is not very complex, but it requires a bit of work to make sure that the lawn is healthy when spring arrives.